Paver Cleaning and Re-Sanding: The Complete Process

Quick Answer

Clean pavers by sweeping thoroughly, then pressure washing at 2500-2800 PSI with a 25-degree nozzle to avoid disturbing sand joints. Apply paver cleaner at 4:1 dilution, let dwell 10 minutes, then wash using parallel strokes along paver joints. Once fully dry (24-48 hours), re-sand joints with polymeric sand, sweep into joints, compact with a plate compactor, and mist lightly to activate the binding agents.

Key Takeaways

• Protect the joints - Use 25-degree nozzle and spray parallel to joints, not perpendicular
• Wait for complete drying - Pavers must be fully dry before re-sanding (24-48 hours minimum)
• Polymeric sand prevents weeds - Modern joint sand hardens when activated, locking out weeds and insects
• Compaction is critical - A plate compactor or hand tamper ensures sand settles deeply into joints
• Mist activation triggers binding - Light water application activates polymeric binders—don't skip this step

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Understanding Paver Systems

Before starting on cleaning and re-sanding, understand what makes paver installations different from other concrete surfaces. Knowing how the system works is necessary for doing the job right.

Paver Types and Their Cleaning Needs

Concrete pavers: Most common residential option. Porous surface holds dirt well but also accepts stains. Handle pressure washing well—proper technique never damages concrete pavers.

Brick pavers: More fragile than concrete. Can spall (flake) if too much pressure is applied. Reduce pressure to 2000-2200 PSI and use a 40-degree white nozzle on older brick pavers.

Natural stone pavers (travertine, flagstone, slate): These vary widely in porosity and durability. Some are extremely sensitive to pressure and acid-based cleaners. Always test in a small inconspicuous area first.

Permeable pavers: Designed to allow water through the joints. These require special attention—never use polymeric sand (it defeats the purpose) and be extra careful not to compact sand too tightly.

Joint Sand: What's at Stake

The sand between your pavers isn’t just aesthetic—it’s structural. Joint sand:

• Locks pavers in place, preventing movement
• Transfers weight between pavers
• Allows drainage through the assembly
• Prevents weed growth (when properly maintained)
• Deters insects (especially ants)

When this sand washes out, pavers can shift, creating uneven surfaces and tripping hazards. I’ve seen patios become unsafe within a year of losing their joint sand. Re-sanding isn’t cosmetic—it’s maintenance.

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Equipment and Materials Needed

Pressure Washer Requirements

For pavers, you don’t need extreme pressure. In fact, more pressure creates more problems:

Minimum specs: 2000 PSI, 2.0 GPM Ideal specs: 2500-2800 PSI, 2.5-3.0 GPM Nozzle: 25-degree green (primary), 15-degree yellow (stubborn stains only)

Avoid surface cleaners on pavers. The spinning action can pull sand out of joints more easily than controlled wand work.

Cleaning Chemicals

Paver-specific cleaners: Products like Simple Green Paver & Stone Cleaner or Surebond Paver Clean are formulated to clean without damaging the paver surface or pulling out joint sand. Dilution typically 4:1.

General degreasers: For oil stains on pavers, use a concrete-safe degreaser. Avoid harsh alkaline cleaners that can discolor pavers.

Efflorescence removers: If you have white mineral deposits (common on newer pavers), you’ll need an acid-based efflorescence remover. Use carefully—these can alter paver color.

Re-Sanding Materials

Polymeric sand: This is the modern standard for paver joints. It’s sand mixed with polymers that harden when activated with water. Benefits:

• Locks in place, resisting washout
• Prevents weed growth
• Deters insects
• Comes in various colors to match your pavers

Standard joint sand: Still used in some applications, particularly permeable installations. No binding agents—will wash out over time.

Amount needed: Calculate approximately 1 pound of sand per 10-15 square feet for standard 2-inch deep joints. For a typical 400-square-foot patio, you’ll need 30-40 pounds.

Additional Tools

• Push broom: For sweeping sand into joints and cleaning debris
• Plate compactor: Rent one for $50-80/day—worth it for any patio over 200 square feet
• Hand tamper: For small areas or tight spaces where a plate compactor won't fit
• Leaf blower: For removing loose debris before and after cleaning
• Shop vacuum: For extracting sand and water from confined areas
• Hose with fine mist nozzle: For activating polymeric sand
• Paver sealer (optional): Recommended after re-sanding to protect the investment

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Preparation: Protect Your Investment

Preparation prevents problems. Here’s what to do before any paver cleaning job:

1. Assess the Installation

Walk the entire surface and note:

• Loose or damaged pavers: Mark these—they should be reset before cleaning
• Low spots where water pools: These may indicate drainage problems that cleaning won't fix
• Areas where joint sand is completely missing: These will need special attention during re-sanding
• Vegetation growth: Weeds or moss between pavers should be killed and removed before cleaning
• Stain types: Oil, rust, efflorescence, tannin stains (from leaves)—each may require different approaches

2. Protect Surrounding Areas

Paver cleaning creates significant overspray and runoff:

• Cover plants: Surrounding landscaping should be covered with plastic or wetted down before starting (wet plants absorb less chemical than dry plants)
• Protect adjacent surfaces: If pavers meet a concrete slab or house foundation, the runoff can stain these surfaces
• Block drainage: If your pavers drain toward a pool or valuable landscaping, consider sandbags or drain covers
• Notify neighbors: If you share a property line, give neighbors a heads-up about the cleaning

3. Test in an Inconspicuous Area

Before cleaning the entire surface, test your cleaning solution and technique in a small corner or area hidden by furniture. Check for:

• Color alteration or lightening of pavers
• Surface etching or roughness
• Excessive sand removal from joints

If you see any of these issues, adjust your approach (lower pressure, different chemical, different nozzle).

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Cleaning Process: Step-by-Step

Step 1: Dry Cleaning—Remove Loose Debris

Start with completely dry pavers—never apply chemicals to wet surfaces unless the product specifically requires it.

1. Sweep thoroughly: Use a push broom to remove all loose debris, leaves, and dirt
2. Blow out joints: Use a leaf blower to remove loose sand from joints—this is sand that would come out anyway during cleaning
3. Remove vegetation: Pull weeds by hand or use a non-selective herbicide (like glyphosate) 5-7 days before cleaning. Dead weeds are easier to remove than live ones
4. Spot treat stains: Apply full-strength cleaner directly to oil or rust stains and let dwell for 15-20 minutes

Step 2: Apply Cleaning Solution

Mix your paver cleaner according to label instructions (typically 4:1). Apply using a:

• Pump sprayer: Most efficient—provides even coverage
• Garden sprayer: Works for small areas
• Roller: Can work but often leaves puddles

Application technique:

• Work in 10x10-foot sections to maintain control
• Apply generously—the surface should be evenly wet but not pooling
• Don't let the cleaner dry before you wash it off
• If cleaning on a hot day, mist lightly with water to prevent drying (don't over-wet)

Dwell time: 10-15 minutes is typical. During this time, the surfactants in the cleaner are loosening dirt and breaking down organic growth.

Step 3: Pressure Washing—Technique Matters Most

This is where most people damage paver installations. Here’s the technique that gives excellent results without damage:

Nozzle selection: Start with a 25-degree green nozzle. Only step up to 15-degree yellow for stubborn stains.

Pressure setting: 2500-2800 PSI. Never exceed 3000 PSI on pavers.

Spray pattern:

• CRITICAL: Spray parallel to joints, not perpendicular
• Stand 8-10 inches from the surface
• Use a 45-degree angle to the surface
• Move the wand in smooth, consistent passes
• Overlap each pass by 25-30%

Working direction:

• Start at the highest point of the installation
• Work toward the drainage point
• Clean in the direction of the paver pattern when possible
• Spray across multiple pavers at once, not focusing on single pavers

Troubleshooting during washing:

• If sand is blowing out of joints: You're too close or using too much pressure—back up to 12 inches or switch to a 40-degree nozzle
• If dirt isn't coming off: Apply more cleaner and increase dwell time, not pressure
• If cleaner dries too fast: Work in smaller sections or mist lightly with water

Step 4: Rinse Thoroughly

After cleaning with the chemical solution, do a final rinse with plain water:

• Switch to a 40-degree white nozzle for the rinse
• Reduce pressure to 2000-2200 PSI
• Flush the entire surface to remove all chemical residue
• Pay special attention to corners and edges where cleaner can pool

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The Drying Period: Patience Pays

Pavers must be COMPLETELY dry before re-sanding. This is non-negotiable.

Why it matters:

• Moisture in joints prevents sand from settling properly
• Polymeric sand won't activate correctly if the base is wet
• Trapped moisture can lead to paver shifting and uneven settling

How long to wait:

• Ideal conditions (warm, sunny, low humidity): 24 hours
• Normal conditions: 48 hours
• Humid or overcast: 72+ hours

How to tell if pavers are dry:

• Surface appears uniformly lighter in color (damp pavers appear darker)
• Sand sprinkled on joints doesn't clump
• Paper towel pressed onto joints comes away dry

What if it rains during drying? Reset the clock—the full drying period starts over after rain stops. This is frustrating, but rushing this step guarantees re-sanding failure.

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Re-Sanding Process: The Critical Finish

Step 1: Choose the Right Sand

Polymeric sand is recommended for 95% of residential applications. Brands like TechniSeal, Sakrete, and Dominator all work well. Key considerations:

• Color matching: Polymeric sand comes in tan, gray, and dark gray. Match to your pavers or choose a complementary shade
• Joint width: Standard polymeric sand works for joints up to 1 inch wide. For wider joints, use a product specifically labeled for wide joints
• Permeable installations: If your pavers are designed to be permeable, use standard joint sand, NOT polymeric sand

Step 2: Apply Sand to Joints

1. Open bags: Pour sand directly onto the paver surface
2. Distribute: Use a push broom to spread sand across the entire surface
3. Sweep into joints: Sweep in multiple directions to ensure sand fills joints completely
4. Work into joints: Use the broom to push sand deep into joints, not just surface-level
5. Fill completely: Joints should be filled to 1/8 inch below the paver surface

Amount to apply: It’s better to apply too much than too little. Excess sand will be removed during compaction.

Step 3: Compact the Sand

This step is CRUCIAL and often skipped by DIYers. Compaction settles sand deeply into joints and activates the binding process.

Plate compactor (for areas over 200 square feet):

• Rent from equipment rental shop ($50-80/day)
• Use a rubber mat or carpet between compactor plate and pavers to prevent damage
• Make 2-3 passes in each direction
• Work from edges toward center
• Overlap each pass by 50%

Hand tamper (for small areas or tight spaces):

• Use a tamper with a square plate (8x8 inches minimum)
• Apply firm, even pressure
• Make 2 passes over each joint
• Focus on edges and corners where the compactor can't reach

Step 4: Remove Excess Sand

After compaction, you’ll have excess sand on the paver surface:

• Sweep thoroughly with a push broom
• Use a leaf blower to remove fine dust from paver surfaces
• Don't blow sand out of joints—angle the blower parallel to the surface

Step 5: Activate Polymeric Sand

This is the magic moment where the polymers activate and harden. Follow these steps precisely:

1. Check weather: No rain expected for 24 hours, temperature between 50°F and 90°F
2. Set nozzle: Use a garden hose with a fan or mist setting—NOT a pressure washer
3. Apply mist: Lightly mist the entire surface—the goal is to dampen the sand, not wash it away
4. Watch for saturation: The sand will darken slightly when properly activated
5. Don't over-water: If water pools on the surface or sand washes out of joints, you're applying too much water

Curing time: The sand will harden within 1-2 hours, but achieves full strength in 24 hours. Keep foot traffic off the surface for 24 hours if possible.

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Common Problems and Solutions

Problem: Sand Washes Out of Joints During Cleaning

Solution: You used too much pressure or sprayed perpendicular to joints. Reduce pressure to 2000-2200 PSI, switch to a 40-degree nozzle, and always spray parallel to joints. Accept that you’ll lose some sand—that’s normal and why re-sanding is part of the process.

Problem: Pavers Are Uneven After Cleaning

Solution: This typically indicates an underlying installation issue, not a cleaning problem. Uneven pavers usually result from inadequate base preparation, erosion beneath the pavers, or tree roots lifting pavers.

Pressure washing can exacerbate existing issues but rarely causes them if the installation was sound. Consider having a professional assess the base.

Problem: Polymeric Sand Didn't Harden

Solution: Usually caused by one of these issues:

• Pavers weren't completely dry before application
• Over-watering during activation washed away polymers
• Under-watering didn't activate the polymers
• Temperature was too cold (below 50°F) or too hot (above 90°F)

Unfortunately, the only solution is to remove the soft sand and start over. Let the pavers dry completely, reapply sand, compact, and activate properly.

Problem: Efflorescence Appears After Cleaning

Solution: This is white mineral deposits that naturally occur in concrete pavers, especially when they get wet. It’s temporary and will fade over time. To speed removal:

• Use a dedicated efflorescence remover (acid-based)
• Follow product instructions exactly
• Rinse thoroughly
• Expect it to return for several months as minerals continue to migrate to the surface

Problem: Weeds Growing Through Re-Sanded Joints

Solution: If polymeric sand was properly applied and activated, weeds shouldn’t grow. If they do:

• Check that sand was fully compacted and activated
• Look for gaps in the sand coverage
• Consider a pre-emergent herbicide specifically labeled for pavers
• Pull weeds by hand—avoid chemical weed killers that can damage pavers

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Sealing Pavers: The Final Protection Step

While not strictly necessary, sealing pavers after re-sanding is highly recommended. A good paver sealer:

• Protects color: Prevents UV fading and oxidation
• Repels stains: Oil and food spills wipe away instead of absorbing
• Locks in sand: Provides an additional layer holding joint sand in place
• Improves appearance: Can provide a natural or wet look depending on product

When to seal: Wait 30-60 days after re-sanding. This allows the polymeric sand to fully cure and ensures pavers are completely dry.

Types of sealers:

• Natural finish: No color enhancement, protects without changing appearance
• Wet look: Darkens pavers slightly, gives a deep, just-rained appearance
• Gloss finish: High shine, significantly changes appearance—not recommended for most residential applications

Application method:

• Use a pump sprayer for even coverage
• Work in small sections (5x5 feet)
• Back-roll with a 3/8-inch nap roller for even distribution
• Apply two thin coats rather than one thick coat
• Allow 24 hours between coats
• Keep foot traffic off for 48 hours after final coat

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Maintenance Schedule: Keeping Pavers Looking Great

How often should you clean and re-sand your pavers? It depends on use and exposure:

Low traffic areas (patios used occasionally):

• Clean every 2-3 years
• Re-sand every 4-5 years
• Seal every 3-5 years

Moderate traffic (typical residential patio or driveway):

• Clean annually or biannually
• Re-sand every 2-3 years
• Seal every 2-3 years

High traffic (pool decks, commercial spaces):

• Clean annually
• Re-sand every 1-2 years
• Seal every 1-2 years

Between deep cleanings:

• Sweep regularly to prevent dirt accumulation
• Remove weeds as they appear
• Address oil stains immediately (cat litter works for fresh stains)
• Rinse with plain water periodically to remove surface dirt
• Re-sand small bare spots as they appear (can spot-apply polymeric sand)

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When to Call a Professional

While paver cleaning and re-sanding is well within DIY capabilities, there are situations where professional help is recommended:

Structural issues: If pavers are significantly uneven, have major drainage problems, or show signs of base failure, cleaning won’t fix these issues. A professional can assess whether repairs are needed first.

Large areas: For installations over 1,500 square feet, professional equipment (hot water pressure washers, large surface vacuums) may be more efficient.

Valuable or rare pavers: If you have expensive natural stone or unusual paver materials, a mistake with chemicals or pressure can be costly. Professional experience is worth the investment.

Efflorescence on expensive installations: Improper efflorescence removal can permanently alter paver appearance. Professionals have experience balancing effectiveness with paver safety.

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Next Steps

• [Removing Efflorescence from Brick and Pavers](/surfaces/efflorescence-removal) - Dealing with white mineral deposits
• [How to Seal Concrete After Pressure Washing](/surfaces/sealing-after-washing) - Sealer selection and application
• [Best Paver Cleaners and Sealers](/chemicals/house-wash-mix-recipes) - Product recommendations
• [Pressure Washer Nozzle Guide](/guides/nozzle-guide) - Understanding nozzle selection

People Also Ask

Can I use regular playground sand for paver joints?

No, playground sand is too fine and won’t stay in joints. It lacks the angular edges needed for interlocking and will wash out quickly. Use joint sand specifically designed for pavers—it has the right particle size and angular shape to lock in place. Polymeric sand adds binding agents that harden when activated, providing the best performance.

How often do I need to re-sand my pavers?

For typical residential use with polymeric sand, expect to re-sand every 2-3 years. Harsh climates with freeze-thaw cycles, heavy rainfall, or high traffic may require annual re-sanding. Standard (non-polymeric) joint sand typically needs to be replenished annually. Visual inspection is the best indicator—if joints appear more than 1/3 empty, it’s time to re-sand.

Can pressure washing damage my pavers?

Yes, if done incorrectly. Too much pressure (over 3000 PSI) or the wrong nozzle (0-degree red) can chip pavers, especially older or more fragile materials like brick. Spraying perpendicular to joints pulls out sand. The key is using moderate pressure (2500-2800 PSI), a 25-degree or 40-degree nozzle, and always spraying parallel to joints, not across them.

What's the difference between polymeric sand and regular joint sand?

Polymeric sand is regular sand mixed with polymer binders that activate and harden when moistened. This creates a solid joint that:

• Resists washout from rain and irrigation
• Prevents weed growth
• Deters insects (especially ants)
• Locks pavers in place more effectively

Regular joint sand is just sand—no binding agents. It’s cheaper but washes out more easily and requires more frequent replenishment. Use regular sand only for permeable installations where water needs to pass through joints.

Can I clean and re-sand pavers in winter?

It’s possible but challenging. Paver cleaners work poorly in cold temperatures (below 50°F), and polymeric sand won’t activate correctly if it freezes before curing. If you must clean in winter:

• Choose a day above 50°F with no freezing expected for 48 hours
• Work in small sections that can be completed and dried quickly
• Consider using hot water pressure washing
• Expect extended drying times (possibly double)
• Never apply sealer when freezing is expected within 24 hours